Category Archives: Magazine EN

Carnet @ Ideabiella

Carnet, which has always been a byword for Italian quality and the go-to partner for the world’s leading fashion houses thanks to the quality and refinement of its fabrics, has decided to participate in the 34th edition of Milano Unica, in the IdeaBiella Hall. At times like these, we must support and stand alongside partners and customers, because the creative and productive cultures have never stopped and represent a sound basis for addressing the upcoming challenges together.

Two are the bunch in the focus:

Velvis

Made in italy and flagship product, Corduroy velvet VELVIS (500F – 1000F) of Duca Visconti di Modrone represents, for Carnet, a choice that focus on a clear goal: to create and to develop 2 exclusive bunch made of 36 exclusive fabrics. This velvet is an excellent fabric, synonymous of style and Italian cultural heritage. This partnership is the result of ideas and passion, as well as the the desire to do something special: an optimistic message to spread to the sartorial world and to the young designers who always work together with the two brands.

Narciso Silk

Narciso Silk fabrics tell the story of manufacturing, craftsmanship and the creative refinement of the vast riches of the Ratti archive.  The culmination of all of these elements contributes to the creation of a timeless and sophisticated collection of shirts, dressing gowns, accessories or linings to customise a made to measure suit. This capsule is being proposed, for the first time, by Carnet.  Ratti prints are recognized for their high quality and style as an art form of genius and printing savoir faire

Ratti’s green approach to production

The issue of sustainability has always been close to Ratti’s heart and the focus of continuous improvement. In the huge ‘machine’ of the fashion industry, the textile sector is at the forefront of promoting and safeguarding social, cultural and environmental initiatives. Starting from the choice of yarns and fabrics, through to business practices, Ratti works every day to be a greener company, admired and chosen by all those who believe in ecological and sustainable fashion.

Projects and initiatives for eco-friendly fashion

Nowadays there are many ways to help achieve a more sustainable fashion industry. In addition to sustainable textiles, Ratti’s choice includes social, cultural and innovative practices in the spinning, printing and dyeing of its fine fabrics.

Recycling is at the heart of many activities, particularly within the Second Life project, which was created with the intention of implementing the circular economy of recovering various materials, be they finished products or textile waste. The first initiative is called 2ndLife Fibers and proposes the creation of padding from recycled silk. Silk is an excellent fibre due to its thermal and breathable properties, which make it suitable for processing into wadding, thus becoming an innovative textile material.

Still on the subject of the circular economy and sustainable fashion, 2ndlife Hydro offers a waterproofing service for our favourite garments. As well as helping to reduce the number of garments that are thrown away because they no longer perform, the waterproofing process is environmentally friendly since it does not contain fluorocarbon substances.

The third project called 2ndLife Print follows the path of circularity and recycling, providing new life to unsold garments and leftover stock. In this case, Ratti’s creativity and his deep-rooted tradition come together to revive garments by reprinting fabrics with the old manual technique of “planche” printing.

Eco-friendly fashion: not just projects but concrete investments

Alongside these projects, the company’s environmental commitment is directed towards the careful management of the textile materials used in the production processes, such as the reduction of chemical agents in the dyes, which are gradually being replaced by natural dyes. This has a positive impact on wastewater management. Continuous routine checks and changes in the materials used in the production process mean that waste management is effective and always being improved.

It should also be added that environmental sustainability in eco-friendly fashion, comes not only from factories but also from offices. The investments made since 2014 have allowed the reduction of electricity and methane consumption, thanks to a series of upgrades on the electrical systems as well as the replacement of old machines and batteries that had lost their efficiency, with new generation models.

Ratti: when tradition and innovation come together to create excellence

Ratti’s fabric processing is the result of an art that is all-Italian. This is a mastery that is the result of attention to detail, respect for tradition and a new interpretation of fashion trends. The extreme finesse of the raw material is obtained through constant experimentation by the in-house research and development department, together with the most modern spinning, weaving and finishing techniques, to give the fabrics fluidity and a perfect balance between weights and surfaces.

Tradition and research come together to create a fabric that has been perfected over the decades, interpreting the needs of the leading fashion designers, and guaranteeing them a high quality fabric. In Ratti’s collections, classic fabrics, which are the result of weaving, can be found side-by-side with fabrics obtained using different printing techniques such as traditional table printing and digital inkjet printing.

They are all Ratti fabrics, the product of a Group that has made its spinning, weaving, finishing and printing departments the foundation of its success. Ratti fabrics are the skilful result of vast experience of a craftsmanship that aims for technological innovation in the processing of natural fibres. They represent the evolution of a company that chooses to continue manufacturing everything in Italy, directly monitoring the production chain.

Skilful craftsmanship and sustainable production

Ratti fabrics are designed and produced in such a way as to respect the harmony between quality and the production processes within the spinning, weaving and finishing departments. One of the Group’s distinguishing feature is its ‘green’ production, which harmoniously combines respect for the environment with the processing of over 5 million metres of fabric per year.

Ratti’s commitment to sustainability and its strong link with the local area is actually a hallmark of the company, which has always focused on preserving the quality of its fabric production processes. The search for new weaves and textures is inspired first and foremost by fashion trends, but also by nature, so that the collections can be enriched by new experimentation in patterns and designs, without abandonning the roots of elegant classicism that has always been the bedrock of the brand.

A state-of-the-art facility in the world of textiles

Ratti places great emphasis on the combination of traditional and manual craftsmanship in fabric printing techniques, and the specialisation, research and innovation in the spinning, weaving and finishing departments. In fact, the Guanzate plant is a state-of-the-art facility in which all departments are equipped with the most modern machinery in the sector. The Technical Development Centre focuses on innovation in production processes such as weaving, while the Research and Optimisation Centre (a team of chemical/textile engineers) is engaged in the research and application of new quality treatments on fabrics during the finishing process.

Ratti: work together to improve the system

According to an Eurotex survey, the post pandemic period showed an encouraging recovery sign for the European textile and fashion sector. In particular, in the second quarter of 2021, the turnover of the textile sector recorded an increase of +3.3%, while the improvement for clothing rose by 7%.

Next to this positive trend, today the sector is facing challenges related to the increase in shipping costs as well as energy ones (especially gas) that could undermine the recovery itself. As our Ceo Sergio Tamborini said: “There is no doubt that the perimeter of companies that are affected by the tensions on the purchase costs of raw materials is expanding, but the supply chain has to remain solid to protect made in Italy values. The increase in prices will be a mandatory choice, due to the fact that our supply chain has no longer margins. There is no company that can absorb these increases just as there is no company that can spare on raw materials at the base of the excellence and the quality of our production.

Ratti S.p.A. Società Benefit aims at providing its customers with everyday more excellent products and coherent service in order to fit the responsiveness required by the fashion system.  This is the reason why it’s long since we have been introducing collaborative forecasting practices for textiles demand, based on information sharing with customer.

Nowadays, early information sharing is not anymore a “nice to have” but it became the strategic enabler for ensuring availability of the right materials, with the right timing and controlling prices as well as overall costs.

As reported by general media as well as by industry focused information channels, since past spring a continuous increase of prices is registered for both energy/fuel and textile raw materials [1](often due to  shortage); at the same time we see a general worsening of transportation services (less availability/longher lead times/higher costs), both on long and short routes.

Data show that this is not just another temporary situation; some examples are +39% increase of natural gas prices along Q3 2021 vs the same period in 2020, +23% increase of raw silk and +511% for shipping a container from Asia.

The consequences on the textile industry, assuming inertial evolution, results in a not negligible risk for fashion companies in terms of suppliers adjusting prices very frequently (upward), higher supply uncertainty for key materials, surging response lead times.

We want to catch such scenario, where the upstream supply market cannot but get harder, as an opportunity to furtherly develop and intensify the good collaboration practices with our customers, starting from fostering early visibility on the demand of key materials, both in terms of items and quantity, so to prearrange appropriate supply of textiles and yarns.

 

[1]https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/raw-materials/fiber-fabric-price-hikes-apparel-inflation-cotton-polyester-lenzing-wolverine-279905/

[2] https://www.ansa.it/pressrelease/economia/2021/08/02/energia-e-gas-forti-aumenti-nel-iii-trimestre-per-le-imprese_9d6b2386-87cf-476e-ad3c-f5627d8311a5.html

[3] Analysis of the Camera di Commercio di Como-Lecco on raw silk prices 20/22D grade 5A and 6A from China, August 2021 https://www.comolecco.camcom.it/pagina574_prezzi-seta-greggia-di-qualit-2022-gradi-5a-e-6a.html

[4] Deloitte weekly Global update – August 2021

[5] WCI, visited on September 9 2021 https://www.drewry.co.uk/supply-chain-advisors/supply-chain-expertise/world-container-index-assessed-by-drewry

Sergio Tamborini SMI

Sergio Tamborini is the new Sistema Moda Italia President.

During the Sistema Moda Italia Shareholders’ Meeting, held exclusively in digital form on September 29th, Sergio Tamborini, CEO of our Group, was elected President for the period 2021-2025. Sergio Tamborini follows Marino Vago, A.D. of Vago Spa which led the association through the pandemic period.

The new President, after a greeting from the Past-President and an outlook on the past activity, presented the team of entrepreneurs who will support him in the strategies of the different focus areas. The President will keep the delegation for Industrial Policy, while the entrepreneurs with the qualification of Vice Presidents are:

• Ercole Botto Poala – Successori Reda Spa – Fairs, Markets and Digitization area
• Gianluca Brenna – Stamperia di Lipomo Spa – Welfare area
• Andrea Crespi – Eurojersey Spa – Sustainability area
• Davide Favrin – Marzotto Spa – Internationalization area
• Roberto Grassi – Alfredo Grassi Spa – Technology Centres area
• Massimo Marchi – Marchi & Fildi Spa – Research & Innovation area
• Alberto Paccanelli – Martinelli Ginetto Spa – Europe area
• Carlo Palmieri – Inticom Spa – Central South Italy area

Of course, the outgoing president Marino Vago will also be part of the team.

The new President will have the task of addressing the recovery of the T&A sector after the pandemic and its heavy consequences. In his keynote speech, Mr. Tamborini highlighted unity as a fundamental asset of his mandate. This will be the decisive element for the recovery of the entire supply chain and the companies that make it up.
The pandemic has not changed elements and scenarios, which were already present in the sector, it has actually accelerated changes that were already on the horizon.

The challenges of restarting can be overcome if the whole sector and its institutional representatives and intermediate bodies move in the same direction, “making a system” more and more concretely. Greater direct involvement of the territories in the national association will allow for a more fruitful exchange of skills and specific needs.

It will be even more necessary to improve the perception of such an important sector for the trade balance of our country, which is still perceived by national institutions not as a primary one, as it is in reality. Confindustria Moda, of which SMI is one of the main players, is born with the aim of a single large representation of fashion, which in the future will have to grow in authority.
SMI is also an important partner in Euratex, (the European textile association) which will acquire ever greater importance, due to its strategic presence in Brussels and at EU institutions. The national association will increasingly be the place for shared thought and discussion, and then proceed in a clear and unanimous direction.

Antonio Ratti exhibition

Exhibition: Antonio’s Dream – A Journey Through Art and Textile

An exhibition tracing the work, life and passions of  our founder Antonio Ratti: art, culture and entrepreneurship return to the territory, reactivating and enhancing a public location of great interest for the city.

Knowledge of the past generates new ideas and creates new forms of beauty. — Antonio Ratti

In Como from October 10th 2021 until January 31st 2022, the Antonio Ratti Foundation presents the exhibition Antonio’s dream: a journey through art and textile, curated by Lorenzo Benedetti, Annie Ratti and Maddalena Terragni. An exhibition project which reunites the vision and history of Antonio Ratti from his place of origin, to the city where his idea of   business culture developed, leaving a precious legacy which is still very much alive. Intertwining ancient textile research, contemporary works of art and archival materials, the exhibition traces the life, work and vision of the industrialist and patron Antonio Ratti, one of the great entrepreneurs who, together with his company Ratti S.p.A. Società Benefit, reinvigorated industrial Italy. The third exhibition dedicated to Antonio Ratti – after the one at Palazzo Te in Mantova in 2017, and at the Baths of Diocletian in Rome in 2018 – Antonio’s dream: a journey through art and textile, further deepens the vision and history of the entrepreneur, expanding the project and communicating directly with the places where he lived and worked all his life. The journey through the exhibition is divided between public and private spaces of great interest and the headquarters of the Foundation, created by Ratti in 1985, where his textile collection is still kept today. Works created specifically for the occasion help to create a cohesive visual relationship between artistic research, ancient fabrics, the story of Antonio Ratti and the interior and exterior spaces of the exhibition. His idea comes alive again: that experience and knowledge, art and experimentation are fundamental tools to understand one’s time and generate new ideas. The exhibition is hosted in the halls of Villa Olmo and Villa Sucota, in their parks and in other places in the city, creating a network between focal points of the cultural fabric of Como.

The exhibition is an opportunity not only to tell the life and story of a visionary entrepreneur, but also to further the idea he sought and supported of the dissemination and sharing of cultural values.

10 October 2021 – 31 January 2022

Villa Olmo Villa del Grumello Villa Sucota –  Kilometer of Knowledge Como

Curated by  Lorenzo Benedetti, Annie Ratti and Maddalena Terragni

For further informations: www.fondazioneratti.org

Ratti – leading producer of italian fabrics

When it comes to fashion, style and fine fabrics, you cannot help but think of the Ratti Group. In producing its Italian fabrics, the Como-based company combines the talent of its master craftsmen with the best Made in Italy production practices, resulting in fabrics of refined elegance of which creativity and aesthetic taste are essential elements.

With its 5 million metres of fabric, the Ratti Group is one of the leading producers of fine Italian fabrics, making it an essential partner, not only of the major international fashion houses – who come to Ratti for its famous Italian fabrics, but also of all who are users of digital technologies and want to select their Italian fabric online.

Silk the italian fabric par excellence

Looking at specific product among the Italian fabrics for which Ratti is reknowned, the first example has to be silk with its variations in satin, chiffon or duchesse: all fine fabrics which, precisely because of their unique characteristics, are intended for the world of high fashion with its unique creations.

This is an exclusive world, in which the great tradition and experience of the Ratti group become essential elements for the creation of exclusive clothes in which Italian fabrics play a key role. With their lightness, three-dimensionality and, last but not least, with their patterns and colours, they enhance perfectly the female figure.

The world of wool of italian fabrics

As a further example of how extensive Ratti’s family of fine Italian fabrics is, one cannot overlook the famous fabrics from the world of wool or cashmere: they also are unique because of their type and excellence, and are perfect for the creation of men’s suits or, once again, for extremely sophisticated high fashion garments. Among the producers of Italian fabrics, Ratti’s high quality products for both the world of haute couture and the on-line world, has enabled it to build up a long history of providing a wide range of fine fabrics for a wardrobe that ‘speaks Italian’, regardless of location.

Carnet

Carnet, division of Ratti group, collaborates with the associations “Tullio Cairoli” and “Noisempredonne”

Business, but not only. Art, culture and, last but not least, philanthropy have always coexisted in the Ratti Group. From the Greek, “love for man”, this term testifies and embodies all those values ​​shared by Guanzate Group, inscribing them in its own creative, cultural and social context to be translated into concrete actions. In fact, the collaboration between Carnet,  division of Ratti and the associations “Tullio Cairoli” and “Noisempredonne” has the aim to create a collection of turbans with the company’s fabrics, at the basis of a fundraiser given to the cancer research of two Como associations .

Founded in 1986, “Tullio Cairoli” association was created to support the operational unit of oncology of Sant’Anna hospital, while the group of volunteers united under the name “Noisempredonne” are engaged in the senology and oncology unit of Valduce, as well as in the radiotherapy rooms of the Sant’Anna hospital.

Deeply rooted in the territory in which it operates, Ratti Group pursues the idea that companies must represent an added value for the reference community, giving life to social projects tailored specifically to the situation while activating, without hesitation, in time of need.