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Ratti and different fabric printing techniques: quality, tradition and innovation

The culture and specialisation of local artisans, in terms of printing techniques, is the most authentic distinguishing feature of the Ratti quality and style. Elements that have led the company to become, from the very beginning, one of the world’s largest producers of printed fabrics for clothing, ties, shirts, beachwear and furniture.

At Ratti, fabric printing techniques are the synthesis of heritage and innovation, as well as mastery and dedication, allowing the Group to last through time. Generations of passionate workers specialised in this art, as well as in the knowledge of different natural and composite fibres, including the most innovative.

Ratti manages and oversees the entire production cycle: from the creative idea developed around a design, to the design of the fabric to the finishing phase, it boasts several internal departments dedicated to fabric printing. Here all techniques are used, from the most traditional to the most cutting-edge. 

Fabric printing, colour and dye

At the basis of every dyeing process or printing technique, Ratti creates a strong bond between the textile fibre and the dye. More specifically: in exhaustion dying, the colour passes from the solution to the fibre, where it spreads. In printing, on the other hand, the dye is mechanically applied to the points that need to be coloured. In summary, the colour is applied as if it were a normal editorial print or illustration. 

Among the fabric printing techniques used at Ratti, direct printing is the simplest case, in which the colour is only applied to the areas of the fabric where the motif is required and is fixed at a later time. 

Usually the dye is applied starting from a concentrated aqueous solution that is thickened with particular starches or glues, until it reaches the consistency of a more or less dense fluid called printing paste. This is spread across the whole fabric according to a pre-determined pattern, dictated by the motif. The thickeners used in the printing paste have the function of increasing its viscosity without gluing the colour onto the fibre, so that they are eliminated during the washing phase of the fabric. In the case of direct digital printing, the dye has a more liquid appearance, the same as ink that is printed on the fabric through a colour jet. 

The discharge printing technique starts from an already uniformly dyed fabric. The dye is then removed by printing a chemical agent. Supposing we start with a fabric dyed in a dark colour, the motif of the print will have a lighter colour on a uniform background. In this case the printing paste will only contain bleaching or colour-destroying agents; if instead the paste contains colours resistant to chemical treatment, we simply obtain coloured motifs.

With the resist printing technique, we start from a paste containing a wax or resin capable of making the fabric (temporarily) waterproof, printing the motif in negative. The fabric is uniformly dyed or printed with the required dyes and immediately after fixation the resisting agent is eliminated. The colour in the “resistant” areas is not fixed and these keep the original colour.

The last fabric printing technqiue used by Ratti is heat transfer printing. The procedure consists in placing the print paste on a “means of transport” (at Ratti a special paper is used), which subsequently, with the aid of a hot calender, transfers the pattern to the fabric. It is a printing technique that uses the sublimation process, i.e. the dye is transformed into a gas that penetrates the fibre. This technique is generally used on polyester fabrics.

All of these printing techniques are carried out using different technologies, including traditional table printing, whether hand, trolley or rotary, and digital ink-jet printing. The excellence achieved by Ratti in the world of fabric printing is the result of constant work as well as way of being and thinking. For these reasons, the company continues to believe and invest in both traditional printing as well as its most innovative technical expressions.

Ratti e Mantero: a new alliance to defend the textile industry.

In a global scenario in which a strong and rapid reaction capacity is required, Ratti and Mantero return to forge an alliance pact aimed above all at the concrete defense of the supply chain.

The agreement was closed which envisages, upon the successful completion of the due diligence operations currently underway, the entry of the two historic textile companies of Como into the capital of Foto Azzurra, a company that has been working in the production since 1989 (composition, photocomposition and photoengraving ) of supports for screen printing applied to fabrics.

After the agreement of March 2020 – in full lockdown – with which the two companies supported each other for the best management of customers, both today reaffirm the importance of creating a system. The entry into Foto Azzurra is the confirmation of how fundamental it is, in critical moments like this, to involve the entire supply chain to create new possibilities for everyone to restart and to continue to guarantee speed of service and maximum quality even when conditions do not seem to allow it.

The operation is not intended to be exclusive between the two companies but also remains open to other interested entities. The agreement will lead to greater solidity of Foto Azzurra which will continue to offer its services to the market with a view to continuous updating and technological evolution.

“We are convinced – explains Sergio Tamborini CEO of the Ratti Group – that in this period there is a need to move from words to deeds, putting in place concrete actions and projects that safeguard the operations of the supply chain and are an incentive for similar operations of other actors”.

For Franco Mantero, CEO of Mantero Seta, “Square printing has characterized the history of Mantero and Ratti and thanks to this extraordinary technique the two companies have been able to enhance Como silk. Without photoengraving there is no square print and without a square print the Como textile district would not be the same”.

For Ivan Imperial, CEO of Foto Azzurra, “Thanks to this synergy, by combining mutual professionalism we will be able to make an effective contribution to the maintenance and development of traditional printing, the flagship of the Comasco sector.”

Foto Azzurra, Mantero and Ratti have deep roots in the Como textile district and a solid heritage of history and craftsmanship that deserves to be protected and enhanced. Sharing projects and ideas through collaboration between competitors has the common goal of creating a product of excellence made in Como and wants to be a driving force for other alliances and increasingly profitable synergies

The ancient but ever new art of silk

Living silk is an art, today as always,” this is the goal of the Ratti group. An intuition that has been transformed into decades of work: silk is a vocation for beauty, which becomes a daily commitment and involves everyone working inside the gates of the Guanzate plant. 

Here, this noble fabric finds a balance between innovation and practicality, always with total respect for the mastery of its professionals, environmental protection and, last but not least, Ratti’s founding values and principles.

Silk: elegance in a fabric

In a world built on the pursuit of beauty, in which elegance is a behavioural quality that transforms the greatest magnitude of being, Ratti continues its work of care and enhancement in the use a precious material such a silk.

The silk itself drives this passion, which starts from an extreme attention to detail meaning that every detail is viewed through the eyes of someone who autonomously gathers formulas, codes and aesthetic graphic elements with a strong Italian imprint.

Silk: tradition meets innovation

The Ratti collections use silk to tell the story of dreams, roots and the future in which heritage is not only found in the stylistic choices adopted, but also in the immense knowledge of this natural material as the concrete basis of talent.

Ratti silk embraces painting, embroidery and, obviously, printing, in order to create fabrics that are the fruit of a creative project that not only emphasises the liveliness of the designs, but also the craft behind each creation.

An intangible material, a hyphen between the classicism that recalls archival motifs and the rebellion marked by geometric designs or a new interpretation of the floral theme that takes shape on ethereal cady. Thus interpreted, silk tells the story of the romantic woman, who winks at the narcissism of haute couture without losing her modern and dynamic essence, or the eagerness to express her personality.

Silk fabrics for clothing and men’s fashion

As for the masculine interpretation of silk, the Ratti style office has made headway in the world of fashion and ties, designing fabrics that symbolically break the existing limits between construction and deconstruction. In doing so, silk becomes the medium to express a new beauty, alternating moments of pure creation with the desire to keep experimenting.

Silk becomes the ideal canvas for experimenting with new colours, until achieving a fragmentation of tones similar to the melange effect that crosses the boundary between the classic tie fabric and infinite creative nuances.

The classic motifs of tie fabrics find a new twist in silk, dictated by the vibrant vivacity of alternating chains or, further still, by the presence of modern geometries, iconic objects or simple numbers. Silk prints that enhance the industrial potential of the group, while still showing artisan excellence.

Our AD, Sergio Tamborini, has been appointed as the new president of Sistema Moda Italia.

The general council of Sistema Moda Italia, which met on Thursday 8 April, unanimously voted Sergio Tamborini’s single candidacy for the presidency of SMI for the four-year period 2021-2025.

The next meeting of SMI, scheduled for the end of September 2021, will have to approve the confirmation of the designated president.

Sistema Moda Italia is the largest worldwide organization representing the textile and fashion industries of the western world and represents a sector that, with just under 400,000 employees and 40,000 companies, constitutes a fundamental component of the Italian economic and manufacturing fabric.

Ratti silks protagonists of the Ferragamo exhibition

The magic of silk is interpreted by the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum as a story of passion and beauty.

The SETA exhibition aims to tell the perfect union between creative flair and craftsmanship excellence, including by Ratti, who is behind the production of these exclusive accessories.

In fact, Italy has always distinguished itself in silk production. Since the 1930s, the city of Como has excelled in silk printing, contributing to the spread of “Made in Italy”.

Today, the printing of Ferragamo scarves is made in Como, by different textile industries, such as Ratti, chosen, from time to time, on the basis of the specialties in which they excel.

The exhibition is divided into four sections: the exotic world and the East, the flowers, animals and historical shoes made by Salvatore Ferragamo, to conclude, then, with the visualization of how these scarves, and therefore these inspirations, coexisted with the world of clothing.

SETA celebrates the happy intuition of Fulvia Ferragamo, who inherited the passion of her father Salvatore in the early 1970s by starting a continuous production of scarves and textile accessories animated by virtuous motifs, dreamlike scenes and imaginative patchworks made with rare skill. Objects of desire and true works of art rich in symbolism and influences from every country in the world, these extraordinary masterpieces project Ferragamo’s infinite creativity and craftsmanship excellence into that indissoluble link between fashion, art and culture that still deeply inspires today the ethics and aesthetics of the maison

For further information: https://www.ferragamo.com/museo/it/virtual-tour

Below some scarves made by Ratti for Salvatore Ferragamo: 

RATTIWHP

Recognition for Ratti by the WHP program.

Ratti received, for the second consecutive year, the recognition of “Best workplace that promotes the health and well-being of workers” by the WHP program which operates in collaboration with the Regione Lombardia and Agenzia di Tutela della Salute (ATS) Insubria.

The path to which Ratti has adhered has as its main objectives the introduction of healthy processes in the workplace in order to improve the health of its employees. In particular, great attention was paid to the prevention of critical factors such as: incorrect nutrition, a sedentary lifestyle, and, last but not least, the issue of work / life balance.

Through these choices, Ratti has always tried to identify new issues to approach, subsequently outlining paths, strategies and objectives that move to the full advantage of people’s well-being, demonstrating how each decision underlines the importance and centrality that people as assets have for the Group.

In a year like this, it becomes essential to anticipate and to interpret needs and concerns that bind health and economy into a single problem that has to be faced and solved.  It’s a must to give value to work in its essence and to do everything possible to protect our people with the value that they express every day.

R Domus – our home décor division

R Domus collections offer an infinite range of possibilities, the result of the Group’s tradition and a constant dialogue with the world of design, where experimentation and design trends become an important plot for each creation dedicated to textile publishers, global wholesalers and contract.

R Domus has also been able to find a new balance between innovation and concreteness also in the study and creation of the customers’ windows, translating ideas into interior design projects through fabrics, cushions and furnishing elements.

R Domus fabrics

It is a secret thread that unites the R Domus collections. A thread that connects the tactile emotion of the fabric to the logic of the taste and needs of its customers. In doing so, the new fabrics are presented in a complete way to meet all needs with a series of proposals to be read as the confirmation of that style and research that has always characterized the furniture division of Ratti.

R Domus fabrics satisfy the classic canons of Italian taste, while adapting them to a contemporary style to accommodate the growing dynamism of the design world and its deep-rooted need to be performing and, last but not least, perfectly beautiful.

 

Eco-friendly fabrics for clothing

Ratti has always been careful not to disregard what, for their customers, are becoming the priorities in choosing a fabric, a service or more generally a brand. A new economy increasingly reliant on renewable energy and production processes that respect the environment. These are the new mantras of the modern consumer and they are the cornerstones of the Ratti Group with its offering of eco-friendly fabrics for clothing.

Ratti’s eco-friendly fabrics, while having a full feel to them, have a soft touch, tastefully respecting the tradition for a relaxed elegance in which every style rule is reshaped and reconciled with the composure that distinguishes the brand. Then the graphic lines together with the colours enhance the excellence of the brand’s research into these environmentally friendly fabrics and its obsessive pursuit of quality.

This family of eco-friendly fabrics, in addition to emphasising the new cutting-edge techniques being employed in the world of textiles, formulates new rules to bring to the fore new sustainable aspects of fashion within a pathway being pursued with great determination.

Eco-friendly fabrics for a sustainable choice

The choice adopted by Ratti with regard to eco-friendly fabrics derives primarily from the intention to continue to offer new and innovative fabrics balancing the need not to betray its own tradition with the need to satisfy new expectations in terms of sustainability. It is in this dichotomy that the meaning of the sustainable nature of the Ratti Group must be sought: a clear intention to offer the market an environmentally friendly product, a new hallmark of the brand.

The eco-friendly fabric offering

The prince of ecological fabrics is GOTS certified organic cotton, cultivated using methods and products that have a low environmental impact, without the use of pesticides or chemical fertilisers. A fabric intended for everyday use having a timeless charm, adopted and reinterpreted by the most famous fashion houses of the world.

Alongside cotton, we have to include linen for the warmer weather. Its properties have always led to it being considered a noble ecological fabric. Linen can be grown using just rainwater for irrigation and, when incorporated in a system of crop rotation, it contributes to the regeneration of the soil.

Another of its eco-friendly fabrics that Ratti recommends for the summer season is GOTS certified organic silk. In this case the mulberry bushes are grown without the use of harmful substances and the silkworms are not treated in any way with drugs or antibiotics. Ratti’s eco-friendly silk is, by its constitution, a material emblem of the brand, a fabric that feeds on the past to give life to new creations of the present.

To maintain customer confidence, Ratti has decided to produce new eco-friendly fabrics, continuing to ensure the quality and stylistic excellence of its products, and thus providing a guarantee of its responsibility as a brand.

Fabrics for haute couture

Haute couture has always bestowed dreams, trying to make the ephemeral concrete and to enhance feminine beauty through fabrics and clothes. Ratti could not but be part of this world, combining its talent in creating fabrics of rare beauty with a balancing of the shapes and the contours of the volumes, to create its own taste and style.

The haute couture fabrics of the Ratti Group combine imagination and craftsmanship, enveloping the female figure with each fold of cloth, while at the same time highlighting the symmetry of each movement. Ratti’s most exclusive collection is similar to a palette of voluptuous shades on which vibrant colours alternate with more ethereal and delicate pastel shades.

The approach taken by the Ratti style office to every fabric intended for the world of haute couture favours working in a methodical way, even though it is imagination and creativity that then dictate the pace of each variation.

The principal themes of fashion fabrics

These are the floral compositions, the main theme of Ratti’s haute couture fabrics. Each bouquet represents the favourite design, created and stylised in accordance with the trends and the taste of the moment, while at the same time bringing out all the curves of the future garment and the richness of haute couture.

Other patterns which are now widely used in the world of haute couture are the animaliers, revisited and adjusted in a myriad of interpretations. With the same energy as the animal-themed prints, in the Ratti luxury collection there is a place for fabrics with geometric motifs and their endless variations thanks to overlaps and interlocks that highlight the technical virtuosity of the style office.

3D fabrics and volumes

For the creation of haute couture clothes, Ratti offers devoré velvets, jacquards and fils coupés, silk duchesse, satins and chiffons.

When speaking of devoré it is always with reference to velvet. Devoré is a type of processing that, using the French term, “devours” the fabric. It is a textile printing system in which a part of the fabric itself is removed so that the base becomes transparent, thus enabling the display of a design that takes shape from the “non-devoured” fibres.

Ratti’s great tradition and experience is the basis on which the jacquards and fils coupés of the collections come to life, unique pieces of unparalleled beauty. Fabrics for haute couture tailoring thanks to the three-dimensionality of the bases on which are created micro and macro designs with their interplays of yarns and colours.

Satins, chiffons or the lightness of silk duchesse are all members of the great family of silks, fabrics intended for the creation of works of rare beauty that are only to be found in haute couture. A world of fabrics where masterpieces are composed with virtuosity and painstaking attention to detail, using crepes and chiffons to create a garment that is at the same time light and refined, without losing its volume and substance.

Last but not least the world of wool and cashmere, unique and of the highest quality, and which, thanks to the versatility of the fibres, lends itself to the creation of extremely sophisticated high-fashion clothes with an impeccable cut.

Ratti’s savoir faire is long-standing, and with its fabrics, intended for the world of haute couture, it is able to provide an infinite range of fabrics, creating refined plays of colours and materials that are always eye-catching.

Fabrics for suits, when the material takes shape

There is a discreet fascination associated with the brand Ratti, a reminder linked to the hypnotic effect of designs and colours expressed through infinite metres of fabric. A sophisticated journey composed of fabrics for suits regulated by a pure aesthetic that governs every cut and breathes life into it.

Ratti, through its own collections of fabrics for suits, has been able to embrace and transcend the rules of dress, creating new ones without however neglecting anything, either codes or heritage, instead laying the foundations of a new way of conceiving the world of textiles.

Fabrics with a thousand facets

The value of Ratti’s suit fabrics is first of all in the thought and attention given to dressing. Each collection represents the perfect synthesis of that ability to mix colours, patterns and designs harmoniously and, not least, to make this quest for harmony appear to be a natural exercise, an attitude that is part of its DNA.

The suit fabrics of the Ratti collections oscillate between reminiscences and re-appropriations in the sense that they are able to grasp the transversality of styles, thus escaping the clutches of those who would like to encapsulate them within a definition by establishing limits or boundaries. Each metre of fabric draws a personal map in the elegance of those who choose it and wear it.

It matters not if the Ratti fabric will give shape to a coat, to the lapels of a jacket or to the outline of a pair of trousers; what matters is that every cut is appropriate to the purpose, is made with the suit or jacket and trousers in mind in order to enhance still further the personality of the wearer.

Fabrics: the origin of a suit

In order to obtain the finished garment, everything starts with the choice of fabric. The work of creating a collection of suit fabrics comes first of all from research, an in-depth study to acquire knowledge and inspiration that have made Italian taste and fashion, from Fellini’s ‘dolce vita’ onwards, a point of reference among the elite brands from around the world.

Every metre of fabric is developed and designed by imagining the suit or jacket and trousers for everyday use whether in classic tones or an elegant print more appropriate to the afternoon or evening. It is the fabric that determines the style of the suit, which is why the design of the collection is the backbone of all creative work.

So for Ratti weaving is a real art: looms, the movements of the machine and the experience of the craftsman in interweaving, not only warp and weft, but ideas and talent, along infinite metres of fabric before it lands on the table of tailors and fashion houses, where from their perception of the cut and their desire to create a style, each fabric will find its own suit.

It is almost a ritual, pure magic, when the Ratti fabric is laid out and the shape of the suit is traced onto it. In that outline we can appreciate the ability and the experience of the couturier, and a recognisable style is traced out, whose details determine success.

Tailors and Ratti suit fabrics represent an unbreakable union consisting of material and gestures, lines and shapes definitively enshrining the osmosis between fashion and clothing. From this moment on, Ratti’s suit fabrics will follow the changes in the seasons, always there ready to be used, so that any jacket or trousers that result will never go out of fashion because their workmanship and the fabric will meet the challenge of time.