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Ratti and the sustainable operation of its business

In these times when the topic of sustainable fabrics has become a central issue for the fashion industry, Ratti is aiming to operate its business in a more sustainable way in order to keep up with the expectations and demands of its customers. For these reasons, Ratti’s desire to improve its range of fine fabrics and sustainable Italian fabrics with new cutting-edge techniques and protocols has become more and more compelling.

NOT ONLY SUSTAINABLE FABRICS

The sustainable fabrics offering has expanded since the first Responsible Collection was launched in 2017 to such an extent that in 2020 the Responsible Collection was abolished with the announcement that all Ratti collections were now made of sustainable fabrics.

To date, Ratti has 200 articles among the different ecological and certified fibres including GOTS organic cotton and hemp, through to the most eco-sustainable of fabrics such as GOTS organic silk, fine Italian fabrics of the Lake Como basin, and linen.

There are two new additions to the corporate responsibility certifications: the Forest Stewardship Council FSC certification for viscose products made from sustainable forest materials and the GRS certification for high-quality polyester fabrics, nylon and recycled wool in accordance with the dictates of the Recycled Claim Standard RCS that have been extended to new compositions.

Among the new GOTS certifications, organic wool is carefully selected from non-intensive farms where the animals are sheared at the right times of the year and, above all, thanks to very strict standards, are fed natural feedstuffs.

FABRICS FOR ECO-FRIENDLY FASHION

As you can understand, the sustainable fabrics produced by Ratti move in step with the certifications that the group has obtained over the years to protect, not only the master craftsmens who work within the company, but also their experience and creativity, so that each season sees the creation of eco-friendly and sustainable fashion.

Design fabrics

Not forgetting Penelope’s shroud, woven during the day and unravelled at night to deceive her suitors, furnishing fabrics have for centuries been considered a synonym for comfort and luxury, exclusive beauty as well as practicality inside the home.

This is a world that, unlike fashion, is based on certainty, telling, from time to time, new stories through natural fibres such as linen, cotton, wool or velvet.

Furnishing fabrics that are not created simply to decorate but to emphasize the personality of a space, to make the room more precious, even if only through a sofa or armchair.

In this context, the furnishing fabrics of Ratti’s Domus division represent a cultured collection, born without any concrete inspiration other than colour itself, in all its variations, even the most subtle and hidden, through which the furnishing fabric assumes its most refined and elegant form.

Furnishing fabrics, classicism meets innovation

In addition to describing a journey with frequent references to classicism until leading to extreme minimalism, furnishing fabrics have a technological and eco-friendly inclination since nothing is left to chance: performance is a fundamental component in commercial choices.

This is why the Domus division at Ratti excels in research on textile materials with unprecedented results, giving furnishing fabrics new and three-dimensional textures that enhance the body and richness, between weft and warp. Jacquard furnishing fabrics become precious textiles thanks to metallic threads and laminations that restore unexpected brightness in an infinite interplay.

Natural fibres for furnishing fabrics

Furnishing fabrics by Ratti Domus favour natural fibres such as silk, wool and cotton in weights ranging from ultra light to ultra heavy. The collection features not only woven fabrics but also printed furnishing fabrics in shades ranging from mauve, to rose to blue, such as to find an affinity with everyone’s taste and not clash with the rest of the room.

From this point of view, the aesthetic of furnishing fabrics is characterised by moments and allusions that enhance the consistency between form and the material in which each element takes shape, in a combination that creates harmony between functionality of use and the aesthetic of the style offices. This blend of technical and creative aspects gives rise to a new perfect balance, the right recipe for a successful design fabric.

Furnishing fabrics: cotton velvet, wool, linen and brocade

Among furnishing fabrics, cotton velvet definitely stands out as a favourite. This fabric is created through the careful selection of the softest and strongest mercerised cotton to obtain comfortable and resistant high-quality Italian velvet. In addition, it is a particularly versatile furnishing fabric thanks to special finishes that optimise anti-drip and stain-resistant treatments, making it suitable for every room in the home. Captivating, with a soft and full-bodied hand, the velvet of the Ratti Domus collection has character and personality, not only from an aesthetic standpoint but above all for the performance offered.

Wool, the famous Golden Fleece that Jason traded with the kingdom of Iolcos, is still considered a fabric symbolic of wealth in the world or furniture as well as in fashion. In fact, tradition has it that wool was used to stuff and line the cushion on which the monarchs of Spain have been crowned since 1429, and even today the cushions and vestments of the House of Lords are decorated with the same fabric when the queen is present. Today, as then, wool is a strong point in collections for its simple coolness and its graphic and textile linearity, which never goes out of fashion.

Other furnishing fabrics worthy of mention include linen and brocade, for the upholstery of sofas and armchairs as well as for curtains. Speaking of these fabrics, there is no risk of slipping back into the classic, nor into Baroque patterns, because the colours and motifs proposed by Ratti Domus feature fresh shades combined with geometries and designs that are delicate in their simplicity.

The furnishing fabrics of the Ratti Domus collection are designed for the contemporary home, pervaded by a touch of culture and personality, mixing style with the aesthetics of good taste in the constant pursuit of authenticity and uniqueness.

tessuti per foulard

Fabrics for foulards

When we talk about fabrics for foulards linked to the Ratti brand, we are talking about a history that unfolds along yards of  printed silk, cotton and viscose. Elements that tell of pure creativity, technological and productive innovation as well as the beauty hidden behind every fold of fabric, gradually revealing the very soul of the collection.

The fabrics produced for these accessories at the Guanzate plant come in a large number of variations with a strong expressive personality, thanks to the fluidity of the material, the full-bodied liquidity of the colours and the creative movement of the prints, tangible signs of the constant search for beauty.

Foulard fabrics

The rhythm of fabrics for foulards and for women’s accessories in general has a more intense beat. The patterns, graphics and colours always originate from books and drawings in the historical archives, the starting point of classic elegance aimed at seeking a new interpretation of the most current trends.

The designs of the Ratti foulard fabrics encourage admirers to take a closer look and fully appreciate the printing techniques where each sign, with an animated a lively graphic stroke, translates the beauty of this art. These material proposals resonate with the body of the fabric, united with the impact colour has on them in an endless multiplication.

Creativity and quality

In Ratti’s collections of foulard fabrics, the chromatic lexicon evolves from chromatism, bringing desire closer to wonder in order to surprise. This is precisely what it means to know how to create. In this whirlwind of colour, we move from primary colours, that evoke vintage atmospheres, such as powder pink, Bordeaux, blue, and even shades of blue-green. We then reach a creative hyperbole, also touching on fluorescent shades that break the rules in a flash.

A clever mix of fabrics for foulards

The watchwords of these collections of fabrics  are creativity and quality, juxtaposed and mixed together in silk, cotton and wool. All different materials, each enhanced by their own intrinsic features and greatest potential. A wide range of accessories, all created to express different lifestyles, from the most classic to the most transgressive, always interpreted and lived with a free spirit. Each accessory is designed to encourage people to run with their imagination.

The aesthetic of the collections of fabrics for foulards  is characterised by moments and allusions that enhance the consistency between form and material, in a harmonious combination of functionality and aesthetic, of creative and technical aspects, always searching for the right recipe to make the perfect fabric.

Ratti and different fabric printing techniques: quality, tradition and innovation

The culture and specialisation of local artisans, in terms of printing techniques, is the most authentic distinguishing feature of the Ratti quality and style. Elements that have led the company to become, from the very beginning, one of the world’s largest producers of printed fabrics for clothing, ties, shirts, beachwear and furniture.

At Ratti, fabric printing techniques are the synthesis of heritage and innovation, as well as mastery and dedication, allowing the Group to last through time. Generations of passionate workers specialised in this art, as well as in the knowledge of different natural and composite fibres, including the most innovative.

Ratti manages and oversees the entire production cycle: from the creative idea developed around a design, to the design of the fabric to the finishing phase, it boasts several internal departments dedicated to fabric printing. Here all techniques are used, from the most traditional to the most cutting-edge. 

Fabric printing, colour and dye

At the basis of every dyeing process or printing technique, Ratti creates a strong bond between the textile fibre and the dye. More specifically: in exhaustion dying, the colour passes from the solution to the fibre, where it spreads. In printing, on the other hand, the dye is mechanically applied to the points that need to be coloured. In summary, the colour is applied as if it were a normal editorial print or illustration. 

Among the fabric printing techniques used at Ratti, direct printing is the simplest case, in which the colour is only applied to the areas of the fabric where the motif is required and is fixed at a later time. 

Usually the dye is applied starting from a concentrated aqueous solution that is thickened with particular starches or glues, until it reaches the consistency of a more or less dense fluid called printing paste. This is spread across the whole fabric according to a pre-determined pattern, dictated by the motif. The thickeners used in the printing paste have the function of increasing its viscosity without gluing the colour onto the fibre, so that they are eliminated during the washing phase of the fabric. In the case of direct digital printing, the dye has a more liquid appearance, the same as ink that is printed on the fabric through a colour jet. 

The discharge printing technique starts from an already uniformly dyed fabric. The dye is then removed by printing a chemical agent. Supposing we start with a fabric dyed in a dark colour, the motif of the print will have a lighter colour on a uniform background. In this case the printing paste will only contain bleaching or colour-destroying agents; if instead the paste contains colours resistant to chemical treatment, we simply obtain coloured motifs.

With the resist printing technique, we start from a paste containing a wax or resin capable of making the fabric (temporarily) waterproof, printing the motif in negative. The fabric is uniformly dyed or printed with the required dyes and immediately after fixation the resisting agent is eliminated. The colour in the “resistant” areas is not fixed and these keep the original colour.

The last fabric printing technqiue used by Ratti is heat transfer printing. The procedure consists in placing the print paste on a “means of transport” (at Ratti a special paper is used), which subsequently, with the aid of a hot calender, transfers the pattern to the fabric. It is a printing technique that uses the sublimation process, i.e. the dye is transformed into a gas that penetrates the fibre. This technique is generally used on polyester fabrics.

All of these printing techniques are carried out using different technologies, including traditional table printing, whether hand, trolley or rotary, and digital ink-jet printing. The excellence achieved by Ratti in the world of fabric printing is the result of constant work as well as way of being and thinking. For these reasons, the company continues to believe and invest in both traditional printing as well as its most innovative technical expressions.

The ancient but ever new art of silk

Living silk is an art, today as always,” this is the goal of the Ratti group. An intuition that has been transformed into decades of work: silk is a vocation for beauty, which becomes a daily commitment and involves everyone working inside the gates of the Guanzate plant. 

Here, this noble fabric finds a balance between innovation and practicality, always with total respect for the mastery of its professionals, environmental protection and, last but not least, Ratti’s founding values and principles.

Silk: elegance in a fabric

In a world built on the pursuit of beauty, in which elegance is a behavioural quality that transforms the greatest magnitude of being, Ratti continues its work of care and enhancement in the use a precious material such a silk.

The silk itself drives this passion, which starts from an extreme attention to detail meaning that every detail is viewed through the eyes of someone who autonomously gathers formulas, codes and aesthetic graphic elements with a strong Italian imprint.

Silk: tradition meets innovation

The Ratti collections use silk to tell the story of dreams, roots and the future in which heritage is not only found in the stylistic choices adopted, but also in the immense knowledge of this natural material as the concrete basis of talent.

Ratti silk embraces painting, embroidery and, obviously, printing, in order to create fabrics that are the fruit of a creative project that not only emphasises the liveliness of the designs, but also the craft behind each creation.

An intangible material, a hyphen between the classicism that recalls archival motifs and the rebellion marked by geometric designs or a new interpretation of the floral theme that takes shape on ethereal cady. Thus interpreted, silk tells the story of the romantic woman, who winks at the narcissism of haute couture without losing her modern and dynamic essence, or the eagerness to express her personality.

Silk fabrics for clothing and men’s fashion

As for the masculine interpretation of silk, the Ratti style office has made headway in the world of fashion and ties, designing fabrics that symbolically break the existing limits between construction and deconstruction. In doing so, silk becomes the medium to express a new beauty, alternating moments of pure creation with the desire to keep experimenting.

Silk becomes the ideal canvas for experimenting with new colours, until achieving a fragmentation of tones similar to the melange effect that crosses the boundary between the classic tie fabric and infinite creative nuances.

The classic motifs of tie fabrics find a new twist in silk, dictated by the vibrant vivacity of alternating chains or, further still, by the presence of modern geometries, iconic objects or simple numbers. Silk prints that enhance the industrial potential of the group, while still showing artisan excellence.

Eco-friendly fabrics for clothing

Ratti has always been careful not to disregard what, for their customers, are becoming the priorities in choosing a fabric, a service or more generally a brand. A new economy increasingly reliant on renewable energy and production processes that respect the environment. These are the new mantras of the modern consumer and they are the cornerstones of the Ratti Group with its offering of eco-friendly fabrics for clothing.

Ratti’s eco-friendly fabrics, while having a full feel to them, have a soft touch, tastefully respecting the tradition for a relaxed elegance in which every style rule is reshaped and reconciled with the composure that distinguishes the brand. Then the graphic lines together with the colours enhance the excellence of the brand’s research into these environmentally friendly fabrics and its obsessive pursuit of quality.

This family of eco-friendly fabrics, in addition to emphasising the new cutting-edge techniques being employed in the world of textiles, formulates new rules to bring to the fore new sustainable aspects of fashion within a pathway being pursued with great determination.

Eco-friendly fabrics for a sustainable choice

The choice adopted by Ratti with regard to eco-friendly fabrics derives primarily from the intention to continue to offer new and innovative fabrics balancing the need not to betray its own tradition with the need to satisfy new expectations in terms of sustainability. It is in this dichotomy that the meaning of the sustainable nature of the Ratti Group must be sought: a clear intention to offer the market an environmentally friendly product, a new hallmark of the brand.

The eco-friendly fabric offering

The prince of ecological fabrics is GOTS certified organic cotton, cultivated using methods and products that have a low environmental impact, without the use of pesticides or chemical fertilisers. A fabric intended for everyday use having a timeless charm, adopted and reinterpreted by the most famous fashion houses of the world.

Alongside cotton, we have to include linen for the warmer weather. Its properties have always led to it being considered a noble ecological fabric. Linen can be grown using just rainwater for irrigation and, when incorporated in a system of crop rotation, it contributes to the regeneration of the soil.

Another of its eco-friendly fabrics that Ratti recommends for the summer season is GOTS certified organic silk. In this case the mulberry bushes are grown without the use of harmful substances and the silkworms are not treated in any way with drugs or antibiotics. Ratti’s eco-friendly silk is, by its constitution, a material emblem of the brand, a fabric that feeds on the past to give life to new creations of the present.

To maintain customer confidence, Ratti has decided to produce new eco-friendly fabrics, continuing to ensure the quality and stylistic excellence of its products, and thus providing a guarantee of its responsibility as a brand.

Fabrics for haute couture

Haute couture has always bestowed dreams, trying to make the ephemeral concrete and to enhance feminine beauty through fabrics and clothes. Ratti could not but be part of this world, combining its talent in creating fabrics of rare beauty with a balancing of the shapes and the contours of the volumes, to create its own taste and style.

The haute couture fabrics of the Ratti Group combine imagination and craftsmanship, enveloping the female figure with each fold of cloth, while at the same time highlighting the symmetry of each movement. Ratti’s most exclusive collection is similar to a palette of voluptuous shades on which vibrant colours alternate with more ethereal and delicate pastel shades.

The approach taken by the Ratti style office to every fabric intended for the world of haute couture favours working in a methodical way, even though it is imagination and creativity that then dictate the pace of each variation.

The principal themes of fashion fabrics

These are the floral compositions, the main theme of Ratti’s haute couture fabrics. Each bouquet represents the favourite design, created and stylised in accordance with the trends and the taste of the moment, while at the same time bringing out all the curves of the future garment and the richness of haute couture.

Other patterns which are now widely used in the world of haute couture are the animaliers, revisited and adjusted in a myriad of interpretations. With the same energy as the animal-themed prints, in the Ratti luxury collection there is a place for fabrics with geometric motifs and their endless variations thanks to overlaps and interlocks that highlight the technical virtuosity of the style office.

3D fabrics and volumes

For the creation of haute couture clothes, Ratti offers devoré velvets, jacquards and fils coupés, silk duchesse, satins and chiffons.

When speaking of devoré it is always with reference to velvet. Devoré is a type of processing that, using the French term, “devours” the fabric. It is a textile printing system in which a part of the fabric itself is removed so that the base becomes transparent, thus enabling the display of a design that takes shape from the “non-devoured” fibres.

Ratti’s great tradition and experience is the basis on which the jacquards and fils coupés of the collections come to life, unique pieces of unparalleled beauty. Fabrics for haute couture tailoring thanks to the three-dimensionality of the bases on which are created micro and macro designs with their interplays of yarns and colours.

Satins, chiffons or the lightness of silk duchesse are all members of the great family of silks, fabrics intended for the creation of works of rare beauty that are only to be found in haute couture. A world of fabrics where masterpieces are composed with virtuosity and painstaking attention to detail, using crepes and chiffons to create a garment that is at the same time light and refined, without losing its volume and substance.

Last but not least the world of wool and cashmere, unique and of the highest quality, and which, thanks to the versatility of the fibres, lends itself to the creation of extremely sophisticated high-fashion clothes with an impeccable cut.

Ratti’s savoir faire is long-standing, and with its fabrics, intended for the world of haute couture, it is able to provide an infinite range of fabrics, creating refined plays of colours and materials that are always eye-catching.

Fabrics for suits, when the material takes shape

There is a discreet fascination associated with the brand Ratti, a reminder linked to the hypnotic effect of designs and colours expressed through infinite metres of fabric. A sophisticated journey composed of fabrics for suits regulated by a pure aesthetic that governs every cut and breathes life into it.

Ratti, through its own collections of fabrics for suits, has been able to embrace and transcend the rules of dress, creating new ones without however neglecting anything, either codes or heritage, instead laying the foundations of a new way of conceiving the world of textiles.

Fabrics with a thousand facets

The value of Ratti’s suit fabrics is first of all in the thought and attention given to dressing. Each collection represents the perfect synthesis of that ability to mix colours, patterns and designs harmoniously and, not least, to make this quest for harmony appear to be a natural exercise, an attitude that is part of its DNA.

The suit fabrics of the Ratti collections oscillate between reminiscences and re-appropriations in the sense that they are able to grasp the transversality of styles, thus escaping the clutches of those who would like to encapsulate them within a definition by establishing limits or boundaries. Each metre of fabric draws a personal map in the elegance of those who choose it and wear it.

It matters not if the Ratti fabric will give shape to a coat, to the lapels of a jacket or to the outline of a pair of trousers; what matters is that every cut is appropriate to the purpose, is made with the suit or jacket and trousers in mind in order to enhance still further the personality of the wearer.

Fabrics: the origin of a suit

In order to obtain the finished garment, everything starts with the choice of fabric. The work of creating a collection of suit fabrics comes first of all from research, an in-depth study to acquire knowledge and inspiration that have made Italian taste and fashion, from Fellini’s ‘dolce vita’ onwards, a point of reference among the elite brands from around the world.

Every metre of fabric is developed and designed by imagining the suit or jacket and trousers for everyday use whether in classic tones or an elegant print more appropriate to the afternoon or evening. It is the fabric that determines the style of the suit, which is why the design of the collection is the backbone of all creative work.

So for Ratti weaving is a real art: looms, the movements of the machine and the experience of the craftsman in interweaving, not only warp and weft, but ideas and talent, along infinite metres of fabric before it lands on the table of tailors and fashion houses, where from their perception of the cut and their desire to create a style, each fabric will find its own suit.

It is almost a ritual, pure magic, when the Ratti fabric is laid out and the shape of the suit is traced onto it. In that outline we can appreciate the ability and the experience of the couturier, and a recognisable style is traced out, whose details determine success.

Tailors and Ratti suit fabrics represent an unbreakable union consisting of material and gestures, lines and shapes definitively enshrining the osmosis between fashion and clothing. From this moment on, Ratti’s suit fabrics will follow the changes in the seasons, always there ready to be used, so that any jacket or trousers that result will never go out of fashion because their workmanship and the fabric will meet the challenge of time.

Fine fabrics, the culture of the handmade

Clothes have always been an expression of the desire to impress, to showcase oneself, one’s individuality and importance. Consequently, the fabric of which it is made must be fine, refined and, if possible, exclusive, all characteristics that are expressed in the excellence of the fabrics, in the variety of the colours and patterns, as well as in the line and in the craftsmanship, which must be of the highest order.

The fundamental element that distinguishes custom-made clothes from off-the-peg is undoubtedly the personalised paper pattern, created ad hoc by the tailor, and the fine fabric that is selected to give shape to the idea. This is an art practised by those who have perfectly mastered the craft in order to transfer the excellence of the fabric to the garment, recreating the charm of made-to-measure clothes.

Once a client experiences the world of the handmade, the fine fabrics gathered in bunches or on bolts, the needle, the thread and the skill of the hands of the tailor, they will find it hard to do without it. This is a world to which we remain faithful, a world that represents one of the last bastions in which the care for the fabric, the design and then the creation of the garment remain bound to the art of the tailor.

A fine fabric for each stylish suit

The suit remains par excellence the most refined clothing for a man, provided that the line, colour and fabric are right and appropriate for the occasion, the time of day, the season or the weather. When you decide on a suit, you must not make compromises: from the natural line that will show the figure in the best light, to the fine fabric, an essential element for obtaining an impeccable result.

From among the types of fine fabrics, Carnet recommends:

Pinstripes

White lines on a blue background still remain a classic par excellence. Considered the fine fabric symbolic of the businessman, of finance and politics. For this reason the choice of this fabric can always be found in Carnet’s bunches and in the collections presented by fashion houses.

Pinpoint

Also known as salt and pepper, this fine fabric is another classic for making suits in shades of grey or dark blue. More sober than a striped fabric, pinpoint is considered suitable for every occasion.

Solid colour

Solid coloured worsted fabrics are generally available in every shade of colour and are chosen based on the use that will be made of the suit. To avoid mistakes and to opt for a jacket/trousers suitable for year round use, it is preferable to choose medium weight fabric and preferably opt for dark colours in shades of grey.

Prince of Wales

The classic Glen Check is a checkered motif that originated in Scotland to identify membership of a clan by means of a design. Although considered a fine fabric, this type of fabric is not suitable for making a “business” suit but remains more appropriate for sportswear to be worn during leisure time. The fine fabrics offered in the collection by Carnet all clearly bear the ‘Made in Italy’ hallmark, a characteristic which at the same time encompasses romance, wise elegance and a sense of style typical of a brand like Carnet.

Ratti at Milano Unica

At the 31st edition of MilanoUnica, Ratti is introducing its new collection of shirt fabrics, with each creative detail free and removed from the concerns of this time. Ratti’s new RCollection fabrics stem from thorough research into the historical archive of the Guanzate-based company in a quest for modernity and graphisms that yearn for simplicity and versatility.

Alongside the classic light-blue tones of shirt fabrics, RCollection tells a story of chromatic contrasts, where the essential nature of black is interspersed with true scratches of seduction through the warm hues of melange grey or dusty autumns colours such as brown, mosses, and purple—resulting in a warm elegance with dynamic appeal. At the same time, the black discovers fresh proportions and stratifications, making space for new geometric and floral patterns.

The fabrics, and specifically cotton and wool, are the hallmark of this new way of interpreting the classic, placing the collection halfway between memory and the present day—enhancing the facets of the modern gentleman as he balances nobility and rebellion. This is the new luxury—a sophisticated simplicity that meets the needs of consumers without overdoing it or amaze at any cost but is always capable of expressing the quality that makes this collection unique.